Sarvi Restaurant, Nagpada, Byculla, Mumbai.

In 2016, I happened to visit, what was once referred to as 'the den of the dons', Nagpada. Surrounded by the dreaded areas of Pakmodia Street, Dagdi Chawl, Jairaj Gully, Shuklaji Street and the by lanes of Kamathipura, I was thrilled, I must say. Nagpada has literally witnessed the transformation of Bombay to Mumbai with the infamous Gangsters, Gang lords, Gang wars, street fights, shootouts, encounters so has ‘Sarvi’. Standing tall opposite to The Nagpada Police Station in Byculla, this Restaurant without a Signboard was established in 1914 by an Iranian Shia gentleman. History says, the Iranian Cafés in Mumbai were mostly founded by the Zoroastrian and Shia immigrants from Iran, who, during the early 19th century had walked all the way from Iran through Quetta, Karachi, Lahore, before reaching Bombay, Poona, Hyderabad for a better life. Sarvi speaks about that bygone era and served whom not – the Godfathers and The Godmothers, the intelligence, the spies, the informers. With spacious sitting arrangements and later a part upgraded to an air-conditioned section, Sarvi is a Kebab Lover’s Fantasy. The Finest, The Tastiest and The Softest Kebab’s, which simply melt in the mouth are served here. Apart from the Kebab’s, I was also bowled over by taste of their ‘Chelo Kebab’ which still lingers in my mouth and I crave for more which reminds me, I should be visit, soon.

A Friend at Sarvi.

Chelo Kebab and Kebabs

Chelo Kebab

Kebabs

Kebabs

Radio Restaurant, Musafir Khana, Mumbai

Overcrowded with people and garment stalls, as we pass through the dingy Musafir Khana Road, a small lane near Crawford Market, Mumbai, we look for and finally find a go-down hidden behind the garment stalls with a small entrance. As we enter, we see huge shabby walls and sprawling sitting arrangements which remind us as rumoured, that from the 60’s to early 90’s this was one of the places for sumptuous meals for the ‘gang lords’ and ‘crime lords’ of Dongri, Dockyard and so. We are at the ‘Radio Restaurant’ established in 1935 with a present footfall of over 8000 daily. As we settle down with these thoughts and concentrate on the menu, we have again triggered our anxiety (maybe); Murg Taliban (Chicken), Kheema Ghotala, India-Pakistan (Rice Dish. It serves four people) to name a few. We start with some kebabs which are truly awesome. Then as we order “Mutton Taliban” and “Roti” we also think of having some “Gurda Fry” but wait, the waiter warns us that we will not be able to eat so much. Surprised by the caution we do not order and wait for what we have already ordered. After a while as we start eating, we realize that it is something we have never tasted before. A taste so different and mouth-watering. The meat is so soft. Post the meal the ‘Caramel Custard’ is also a must try something like a perfect dessert. Going by the goodwill of the place, you will simply be surprised by the superb taste of food. It’s delicious. Not to mention the quantity or the super reasonable pricing. One visit is never enough and do plan to go in numbers because you alone may not be able to finish off the serving. It is difficult to locate but do try your map or ask locals around Crawford Market to guide you to this Classic. Cheers.

Mutton Kebab

Mutton Taliban

Caramel Custard

Meetha Pan

#MeethaPan

I suddenly wanted to have a 'Meetha Pan (Sweet Betel Leaf)' and so I stopped by a road side Pan Shop. As the Panwala started preparing my Pan some wonderful daily life activities were going on which I feel like sharing. As the Panwala prepared my Pan, two people (probably daily customers) were chatting with him. One of the customer was proudly showing a few photos of his new family member, a puppy which he has bought for ₹15000. They all were engrossed how good and cute the puppy was. As I glanced, I too liked it. Meanwhile, a hurried customer came and asked for something and hurriedly left. Then came a teenager who bought a cigarette. Behind him was his girlfriend (am sure about this). The girlfriend was unhappy about him smoking and the way he smoked he looked foolishly immature showoff'ing something which he could've done without. By the way, my pan was still in the making with all those silly ingredients that make it difficult to put it inside the mouth at once (because it becomes so huge). The love and hate of the couple continued a few metres away below a tree when finally I get my silly pan which I couldn't put inside my mouth at once and had to take three bites while spilling some masala. Oh.. What trouble.. And I walked away chewing.. Life goes on.. 😊

What A Ride

It was evening and raining heavily as I rushed inside the Borivali station to find an AC local at the platform. The AC local was introduced on 25^th December 2017 and I had not yet taken a ride, so this time I decided to experience it and what a ride I had. I was travelling from Borivali to Mumbai Central. It was the 6.55pm local and yet as time ticked by it didn’t move. What was truly eerie was, as far as I could see inside the train there was no one, not a soul. The AC was on full swing and Mumbai felt like Kashmir. My mind re-winded as I was about to witness another ride as this after 9 years or so. That ride I remember we (Ananya and Me) were travelling from Howrah to Digha in the Duronto Express and our compartment had no souls apart from us in the whole journey. In fact, the bus that the resort had sent from Sankarpur to pick us up also had only us as the only passengers. That was another great experience.

Well coming back to the story and the reality the AC Local finally started at 6:57pm and the doors closed with only me sitting. After a while finally I saw a soul, an RPF Lady Constable walked past me and settled two rows back. And almost in a minute, she was having a conversation which was clearly audible. She must have been speaking to her senior. She was narrating an incident that had happened during the day. A man had entered a women’s coach and she had an altercation with him. The person would not get down and she would not let him stay. Amidst this, another soul was coming forward and finally stopped in front of me asking to show the ticket. It was the TT (Travelling Ticket Examiner) or TC (Ticket Checker). As he finished viewing my ticket, he uttered three words which no one can expect in any local train of The Mumbai Subarban Railway Network, never. He said, Thank You Sir. Can you believe that a Mumbai TC was actually thanking a passenger for showing ticket? Unbelievable. 

Anyway, Andheri had come by that time but not a soul in sight. I was having a feeling of riding in the future as you might have experienced in movies. It was dark outside with heavy rains and an AC fast local at full speed was like I was anywhere in future but not Mumbai, can’t be. The thought sends shivers down your spine and I was experiencing it with the chilled temperature inside.

So gradually Bandra came, Dadar came and finally I stood up as I would get down at the next station, Mumbai Central. I, actually, was up as soon as the local left Dadar. Warming up, you know, I warmed up, took some photos and waited near the closed door. As far as I could see inside the train there was hardly anyone (see the pic). Finally, I got down at my destination only to look back and find the RPF Lady boarding down too.

Well, as I walked ahead, the train left and the rain sound took over I don’t know why but I was only thinking about “Okhil Babu (Okhil Chandra Sen)”, the man who had written a letter to The Indian Railways in 1909 which supposedly led to the introduction of toilets in trains. 😊

Three Rides - Three Stories

A few days back three back-to-back rickshaw rides in Mumbai were strangely interesting. All the last three drivers were either born in Bengal or have a Bong Connection.

The First Ride – Hearing us speak in Bengali suddenly the driver gentleman who looked into his mid-fifties started reciting a few lines from Rabindranath Tagore’s “Sahoj Path”. Surprising us, he then started talking in Bengali and he was on this nostalgic trip of his own. This person was born in Kolkata and he spoke about the riding India’s first metro when it started in the 1980’s. His tram rides from Tollygunge to Gariahat. The cinema halls of Bhawanipore, the food, the culture, politics, his childhood memories of the city and what not. For me too it was a journey into my childhood. What a lovely ride we had.

The Second Ride – Hearing me speak in Bengali over the phone the driver gentleman started speaking in Bengali. Another surprise for me. This man who seemed to be in his mid-forties comes from a village in Malda, West Bengal. He had an interesting story. Long back he ran away from home with his mother’s jewellery and landed in Mumbai. He wanted to become an actor. He started working at some hotel and managed to meet one casting agent who made him believe that for acting he first needs to have an artist’s card. The card would cost ₹50,000 and this fellow arranged that money and gave him only to find that the agent and the agent’s office somewhere in Goregaon vanish. Heart broken and after a few tries he finally gave up his dream and bought an auto-rickshaw which he drives. He has also booked his “kholi” (room / flat) and will soon shift. His family is back in the village and he plans to bring his children and wife to Mumbai permanently. His father had visited once but didn’t like the city much. He enjoys his trips to Malda but admits he can’t stay more than 5-6 days. He loves hilsa and is concerned about the illegal migration of Bangladeshis in Mumbai. He said he witnessed a few being arrested very recently. A thoughtful journey for me.

The Third Ride – We had stopped the rickshaw as I went out to pick up something and, on my return, Ananya tells me that this gentleman understands Bengali as he drove a taxi in Kolkata for 6-7 years. Not much details but he left Kolkata because he couldn’t drive at night due to lack of passengers and hence, he found Mumbai to the ideal location as he loves driving at night.

Life is a journey and a celebration. I will relish these three experiences for long. If you have reached the end do share your experiences in the comments.

Mumbai Auto rickshaw

Mumbai roads never fail to amaze any individual. Just see this Classic Horn of a Auto Rickshaw.